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No. 53. 


United States Hydrographic Office—Bureau of Navigation. 

■- 

f'?) 


THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS. 


TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF 


CAPTS. PHILIPPE DE KERHALLET AND A LE. GRAS 


. ****** . — r'f, 

V* >• Jf 


ADDITIONS, TO THE PRESENT DATE- 


WILLIAM H. PARKER, 

LIEUTENANT, U. S. NAVT. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
1873. 







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ADVERTISEMENT. 


Tlie description of the Cape Verde Islands is a translation from the 
French of Captains Philippe De Kerhallet and A. Le Gras, with addi¬ 
tions, to the present date. 


R. H. W. 


United States Hydrographic Office, 

Washington, D . C., October 30; 1873. 




TABLE OF CONTENTS. 


Page. 

General remarks: division of group into Windward and Leeward Islauds; seasons; 
climate; productions; winds; fogs; currents; exports; imports; general 

directions; navigation of channels; tides; soundings; coasts. 9-15 

St. Antonio: aspect; productions and climate; anchorage off Pointa do Sol; 

water; Tar ratal Bay. . .15-16 

Shoals: directions ; tides ; water; anchorages of Caroveiras and Simao ; Santa 

Cruz; Bull Rock. 16-17 

St. Vincent: climate; productions; bays NE. coast; Bird Island; Porto Grande; 
soundings ; directions ; anchorage ; approaches; Orontes Bank ; change of 

soundings; resources; coal; water; tides; San Pedro Bay; Still Bay. 17-20 

St. Lucia ; aspect; population ; anchorage ; Leon Island ; shoals; caution ; 

landing; water; soundings; discolored water..20-21 

Branca: aspect; anchorage; water; tides. 21-22 

Raza: aspect; landing; channel; coral plateau; directions. 22 


St. Nicholas: aspect; productions; climate; Freshwater Bay; directions; water; 
tides; St. George Bay; Rolla Road; Port Preguiza ; anchorage soundings; 
directions; Forcado Bay; Lapa Bay; Tarrafal Bay; anchorage; caution; 

water; coast; soundings; NW. Bay; North Point; NE. Point. 22-25 

Sal Island : Martinez Peak; coast; reefs; rocks; Wreck Point; Horn Point; 
Manuel Point; resources; currents; landfall; South Bay; anchorage; cau¬ 
tion; PortSalina; MordeiraBay; anchorage; water; tides; Turtle Point; 

Lion’s Head ; Bird Island ; Palmira Bay ; anchorage.25-27 

BonettaRock: currents; caution. 

Boavista: climate; resources; coasts; East Sand Head; Brazen Hill Bluff; 

South Point; West Point; reef; Coral Point; North Point; Bluff Reef; 
Broyal Point; Porto do Norte; Hartwell Reefs; reefs and islets; channels; 
directions; caution; resources; Curralinho anchorage; Portuguese Road; 
reef to westward of bay; coral reef; Porto Sal Rey or English Road; Small 
Island; dangers; anchorage; directions; water; tides; rollers; soundings 

around Boavista; caution..27-32 

Leton Rock: description; bearings; soundings around plateau; caution; di¬ 
rections; Mayo; aspect; productions; coast; Galhao or North Reef; East 
Point; South Point; Blisset Reefs; Salt Pan Point; Rocky Point; English 
Road; anchorage; water; landing; supplies; tides; soundings; Colheta 

Bay; Bay of Pan Secco ; sounding around Mayo; directions. 32-35 

St. Jago: aspect; resources; population; climate; Mt. St. Antonio; exports; 
water; coasts; SE. Point; St. Francis Bay; appearance; PuntadasBicudas; 


Punta Temerosa ; Porto Praya ; Pray a ; Quail Island anchorage ; directions: 
seasons; tides; supplies; water; Ribeira Grande; PortComicos; Tort San 
Antonio; Ribeira da Barca; Ribeira da Prata; Tarrafal Bay; wood ; water; 

Tarrafal Point; Malguetas Bay; Port St. Jago. 35-39 

Fogo: aspect and resources; caution; winds; currents; anchorage off Luz ; 

Porto da Villa; shifting sands ; soundings. 39-40 

Brava: aspect; resources; Rombos Islets; soundings; Fuma Cove; directions; 

anchorages of Auciao, Ferreiros, and Feignan de Angua ; products. 40-41 

Dangers reported: Haunah’s Coral Shoal: Patty’s Shoal; Porgas Bank. 41-42 

Alphabetical index of names of places. 43-45 




































« 






























NOTE. 


The courses and all bearings are true. 

The distances are expressed in sea-miles of GO to a degree of latitude. 
A cable’s length is assumed to be one-tenth of a sea-mile. 






CAPE VERDE ISLANDS. 


Variation in 1873, 19° 30' W.; annual increase, 3'. 


GENERAL REMARKS. 

The Cape Verde Islands lie between the parallels of 14° 
46' and 17° 12' north latitude, and the meridians of 22° 40' 
and 25° 22' west longitude. They were discovered on the 
3d of March, 1460, by Antonio Noli, a Genoese in the service 
of Portugal. This group is distant about 135 leagues 
from Cape Verde, the southern islands being a little nearer 
its parallel; it extends about 160 miles from east to west, 
and 150 miles from north to south. 

These islands, a dozen in number, are divided into three 
groups. 

The northwestern includes St. Antonio, St. Vincent, Santa 
Lucia, Branca, Baza, and St. Nicholas; this group lies ESE. 
and WNW., forming a distinct chain. 

The northeastern includes Sal and Boavista, both groups 
being included in the general name of the Windward 
Islands. The channels which separate these islands are 
generally free from dangers. 

The Leeward group includes Mayo, St. Jago, Fogo, and 
Brava j to the northward of the latter are two large rocky 
islets called the Bornbos. This group is situated nearly on 
an ENE. and WSW. line. All the channels between the 
islands are clear, except that which separates Boavista 
from Mayo, in which lies a dangerous reef called Leton Boc k. 

The area of the twelve islands is estimated to be 1,241 
nautical miles, and the population, which is divided into 
nine districts and twenty-nine parishes, at about sixty 
thousand. The great majority of the inhabitants are either 
native Africans or mixed with European blood. The Portu¬ 
guese, including the convicts, are greatly in the minority, 
and are scattered among the islands as merchants, arti¬ 
sans, &c. The greatest virtue of these islanders is their 
hospitality, but their natural indolence tends to the per¬ 
petuation of their poverty. 

These islands, like the Canaries, seem to be of volcanic 
origin. Their surface is generally arid and mountainous, and 
there is little vegetation except at the bottom of the ravines. 



10 CLIMATE—PRODUCTIONS—EXPORTS—IMPORTS. 


Climate. 


Productions. 


Exports. 


Imports. 


The climate is very hot (luring the dry season, from Decem¬ 
ber to July, but it is not so unhealthy as during the rainy 
season, which continues from August to November. During 
this season pernicious fevers prevail, and sometimes even 
the yellow fever; the small pox is very dangerous and makes 
great ravages, principally among the blacks. The scarcity 
of water, and the droughts which often occur, render the 
harvests very irregular and cause terrible famines. At times 
torrential, devastating rains are the cause of much misery. 
In addition to this are the invasions of countless locusts, 
which ravage the fields, and in a few hours strip them of all 
vegetation. No less than four great famiues are mentioned. 
Those of 1773 and 1831 each lasted three years: the first 
carried off one-half of the population of St. Jago, and the 
second more than 12,000 souls. In 1846 a part of the inhab¬ 
itants were obliged to live on herbs. 

Eice, Indian corn, tapioca, grape-vines, sugar-cane, and 
tobacco are raised in the valleys wherever there is a bed of 
vegetable earth. Indigo and cotton-plants grow without 
culture, and the tamarind and palm-trees are numerous. 
There are no large woods, the forests, the primitive rich¬ 
ness of these islands, having been destroyed; the wood of 
the coacoa-nut and fig-tree is used in building. Good 
water can only be obtained in small quantity. Game, 
such as partridges, quails, &c., is now very rare. There is a 
small number of horses, asses, and mules on some of the 
islands, and a very good breed of working cattle is obtained 
by crossing the African buffalo and the European cow. 
The colonial industry is principally confined to working 
salt-mines, the extraction of oil, and a little sugar, the distil¬ 
lation of tafia and the manufacture of cotton and woolen 
fabrics which are sent to the coast of Africa. Fish abound 
around the islands and in all the bays. 

The principal exports are, from the Windward Islands, 
coffee, orchal, salt, and goat-skins ; from the Leeward Islands, 
salt, a seed called purgueira , goat-skins, hides, orchal, coffee, 
sugar, live birds, &c. When the rains are abundant large 
quantities of corn and beans are exported. The approxi¬ 
mate value of the exports is about $500,000 a year. 

The imports consist of English and French cotton goods, 
wines of all kinds, ready-made clothing, flour, butter, iron¬ 
work, &c., and woolen stuffs, such as cashmere, broadcloth, 
alpaca, &c. 

The most important place is the town of Praya, on the 
island of St. Jago; it is the official residence of the gov¬ 
ernor and civil and military authorities.. The former lives 





WINDS—TRADE-WINDS—H ARMATTAN. 11 

part of the time at Brava, this island being more healthy 
and more agreeable than St. Jago. 

The Cape Verde Islands are in the zone of the NE. winds, 
trades, which prevail there from November to July, often 
blowing with much greater force than farther to the west¬ 
ward. During the stormy season, from July to November, 
they are generally replaced by winds variable from SE. to 
SW. This is the period of gales from SE. to SW., which 
often blow with fury and render the anchorages which are 
exposed to them very dangerous; this is also the season of 
tornadoes and general stormy weather. It is a fact that in Trades, 
this group the NE. trades are never constant nor so per¬ 
fectly established as farther to the westward, and it often 
happens that they are lost in the vicinity of the islands and 
followed by calms and variable winds; this is particularly 
the case during the wet season. Vessels bound across the 
line should modify their route according as they are going 
to ports on the west coast of North or South Africa or South 
America. 

In the zone included between the meridian of the western- 
most island and the coast, and extending south as far as the 
equator, there are variations in the NE. trades, even dur¬ 
ing the fine season, which do not occur farther to the west¬ 
ward ; they are probably due to the vicinity of the coast of 
Africa, the sun from July to October raising the tempera¬ 
ture of the land on the Guinea coast, and hence drawing the 
wind from the S. and SW. Farther to the west; between 
the meridians of 23° and 28° W., the NE. and SE. trades 
are separated only by a narrow belt of variables and often 
unite at the equator. In all routes to the westward there 
is then an advantage in crossing the line to the westward 
of the Cape Yerde Islands. The harmattan, which blows Harmattan. 
from the coast during December, January, and February, 
is charged with fine sand, which produces a thick haze and 
droughts, but it is not unhealthy. 


Fogs 

•Currents. 


12 CLIMATE—FOGS—CURRENTS & COUNTER-CURRENTS. 


The following table, the result of a great many observa¬ 
tions, will give a general idea of the climate of the islands : 


Months. 

Winds. 

Mean 

barometer. 

Thermome¬ 
ter—Fah¬ 
renheit. 

Remarks. 

January ... 

N. to NNW. 

29. 98 

0 

68 

Fresh breezes. 

February.. 

NNE. to N W. 

29. 84 

68 

Do. 

March_ 

NNE. to N. 

29. 76 

66 

Do. 

April. 

N. and NNE. 

29. 76 

64 

Strong winds; dew. 

May. 

HE. and NNE. 

29. 80 

66 

Fresh Winds; dew. 

June. 

NE. toNW. 

29. 92 

77 

Cloudy toward end of month. 

July. 

NE. to SW. 

30. 07 

80 

Cloudy; variable winds; tor¬ 
nadoes. 

August.... 

NE to SSW. and 

SSE. 

29. 76 

84 

Tornadoes; rains; very hot. 

September . 

MW. to SSE. 

29. 80 

82 

Tornadoes; rains; fogs. 

October- 

NE. to SW. 

29. 88 

82 

Cloudy; rains; dews; mists. 

November . 

NNE. toSW. 

29. 80 

71 

Fresh breezes; dews; squalls. 

December.. 

E. to NNE. 

29. 80 

71 

Fresh breezes. 


Fogs are frequent and v^ry thick. 

The islands are in the track of the African, Polar, and 
Guinea Currents, which set to the SW. with a velocity of 
J of a mile per hour, influenced more or less by the force of 
the prevailing wind. The western limit of the Polar Current 
at the parallel of Cape Verde lies between the Islands of Sal 
and Boavista and between Mayo and St. Jago; from thence 
its direction is SW. Among the islands the currents are 
sometimes variable, but they set generally to the S. and 
SW.; very rarely to the XW., and still more rarely to the 
SE. or ESE. Farther to the westward, at about the me¬ 
ridians of 26° and 27° W., the currents, being clear of the 
islands, generally set to the SW., WSW., and W. To the 
southward of the islands, as far as the equator, and in the 
belt included between the southern limit of the Polar and 
northern limit of the Equatorial Currents, their directions 
are very variable. 

The eastern branch of the Polar Current is lost below the 
parallel of 10° north latitude in very irregular drifts, which, 
combined with the counter-currents of the Equatorial, gen¬ 
erally set, especially between July and October, to the 
ESE., E., and NE. This is again subdivided, one of the 
branches passing to the southward of Cape Palmas, and 
taking the name of The Current of Northern. Guinea, and 
the other setting to the NE. and N., and near the coast 
even to the XW., as far as the Bissagos Islands. After 
the southwest winds (solar breezes) mentioned above, there 


















DIRECTIONS—PASSAGES—FOUL CHANNELS. 13 

is, near the coast of Senegambia, a change in the direction 
of the current which lasts for several days. 

All the islands are high and may be seen from a great ti ^® neral direCk 
distance when the weather is clear. Unfortunately fogs 
and mists frequently hang around the islands, rendering the 
making of the land difficult, and too great caution cannot 
be exercised when running for them. The general set of 
the currents is to the westward, particularly near Sal and 
Boavista, and these currents have occasioned the loss of a 
large number of ships approaching the islands from the 
eastward. Although it may seem improbable that there 
would be any considerable error in the reckoning in so short 
a passage as from the Canaries to the Cape Yerdes, still 
there are many instances of such, as well in easting as in 
westing. It will be prudent, therefore, as regards errors 
in westing, to keep 20 leagues to the eastward of Boavista 
before standing in to make the land, lest in keeping a direct 
course for that island you should pass between St. Nicholas 
and Sal Islands, and find yourself to the westward of Boa- 
vista when your reckoning placed you to the east of it. It 
is always advantageous to approach the islands from the 
northward during the trades. Vessels coming from the 
southward will be exposed to calms and squalls, and beat¬ 
ing through the passages is often tedious, as the wind draws 
through with force and causes a rough sea. 

Although as a rule these channels are clear and safe, some Passages be- 
precautious must be taken, depending on the strength andands. 
direction of the prevailing wind. The channel between St- 
Antonio and St. Vincent should only be taken with a fair 
wind. Very little would be gained in beating against the 
NE. wind, which is strong here and often accompanied by 
a SW. current. If obliged to attempt it, it will be better 
to hug the south coast of St. Antonio, where the wind is 
often lighter and the sea smoother than in the middle. Near 
the north shore of St. Vincent there is generally a coun¬ 
ter-current setting NE., but the coast of St. Antonio is 
bolder, and safer when beating close in shore. 

The passage between St. Vincent and St. Lucia is marked Foul channel. 
Foul Channel on the charts. Her Majesty’s ship Leven 
beat through and did not find less than 6 fathoms, with 15 
fathoms in mid-channel. With a strong wind the sea is very 
rough, and often breaks, which is caused by the swift, irregu¬ 
lar currents, as the depth of water is said to be from 14 to 17 
fathoms in the middle, decreasing toward the shores. It 
should be taken only with a manageable wind. 


14 NAVIGATION OF THE CHANNELS BET. THE ISLANDS. 


St. Lucia and 
Branca. 


Baza and 
Nicholas. 


Sal and 
vista. 


Boa- 


Boavista 

Mayo. 


Unless wishing to anchor off the eastern coast of St. 
Lucia, it is better not to take the passage between that isl¬ 
and and Branca. The one between Raza and St. Nicholas 
is preferable. The same remarks apply to the channel be- 
Branca and Ka- tween Baza and Branca. If attempted keep nearer Raza, 
as the water is deeper. In the channel between Raza and 
st St. Nicholas the currents are very irregular, and it is better 
to go through only with a fair wind. 

Vessels may pass between Sal and Boavista, but it is 
preferable to keep nearer Sal Islaud as there are some dan¬ 
gers on the shores of the other, viz, the Hartwell Reefs 
and Bonetta Rock, the existence and position of the latter 
not being positively known. At night, and even in the day¬ 
time, if the land is not perfectly recognized, it will not be 
prudent to take the passage. 

In the channel between Boavista and Mayo there is a 
dangerous reef called Leton Rock, which is fully described 
on page 32. On account of this danger this passage should 
not be taken at night or during thick weather. When the 
land can be distinctly seen and recognized, it is safe and 
practicable, keeping about 4 miles from Boavista, if bound 
to that islaud; but if going to Mayo, it is better to pass be¬ 
tween it and the rock, keeping 5 or 6 miles from the island. 
At all times, when standing near Mayo, a sharp lookout 
must be kept for Galhao Reef, which lies off the north point 
of the island. The currents generally set a few degrees to 
the W. of S., with a velocity of from J to § of a mile per 
hour, according to the strength of the wind. They must be 
T May° and st. noted and allowed for. Between Mayo and St. Jago the 
channel is narrower than the two preceding; it is clear and 
navigable at all times, although it would be difficult to beat 
through against a fresh NE. breeze. When enteriug from 
the northward, whatever may be the direction of the wind, 
it is better to avoid the east shore of St. Jago, near which 


are calms, violent squalls, and often a current setting to the 
SW. and W. St. Jago should never be approached close 
to, especially with the wind at NE., on account of the calms 
caused by the deflection of the winds by the high land, and 
the heavy swell which sets toward the shore on the east 
side. Blisset Reefs, off the south side of Mayo, must be 
given a good berth. 

Jago and The passage between St. Jago and Fogo is wide, safe, 
and practicable at all times. It is better, in general, to 
steer a middle course or to keep a little nearer to Fogo, 
especially with the wind at NE., to avoid the calms to lee- 


TIDES, SOUNDINGS, COASTS—ST. ANTONIO. 


15 


ward of St. Jago, and also the currents, which are stronger 
off its SW. shore than in any other part of the passage. 

In the narrow passage between Fogo and Brava the winds 
are always strong, particularly those from the northward,' 
(NW, to NE.) It can only be taken with a fair wind, and 
Fogo should be approached nearer than Brava, particularly 
at night, on account of the Rornbos Islets. Vessels may 
pass midway between these islets and Brava. 

To recapitulate: in navigating the passages between these 
islands it is necessary to watch closely, and avoid as much 
as possible the calms, currents, and squalls which are found 
there. If not bound to any port in the islands, it is always 
preferable to pass to the westward of the whole group, 
sighting St. Antouio. 

The establishment of the port varies in the archipelago 
from 6 hours to 7 hours 45 minutes. Rise and fall from 4 
to 6.5 feet. 

The depth of water is very great near all the Cape Verde 
Islands, and the bank of soundings is often so narrow that 
the anchorage, if there is any, may become dangerous. 

The greater part of the coasts are abrupt, formed by high, 
perpendicular cliff's, and cut up by deep ravines which pre¬ 
sent in a few places sandy beaches. The south sides of 
Mayo, Sal, and particularly Boavista, are exceptions, pre¬ 
senting almost everywhere sandy shores divided by rocky 
points. 

ST. ANTONIO. 

St. Antonio, the northwestern and largest island of the 
group, is 22J miles long from E. to W., and about the same 
distance ENE. and WSW.; it is principally inhabited in 
the northeastern part, where the coast is divided by two 
ravines at the bottoms of which there are a little verdure and 
a few small villages. The climate is healthy, and its soil is 
the most productive of any in the group ; it produces about 
1,000 quintals of excellent coffee, of which 50 per cent, is 
exported; also 500 pipes of wine; tafia, sugar, and corn. 
There is a source of mineral waters containing lead and tin 
which has not yet been explored. The population, from 
18,000 to 20,000 souls, live in an almost savage state, and 
are without education or religion. Seen from a distance, 
and particularly from the westward, St. Antonio appears 
like an assemblage of high mountains; in fact, its central 
part is traversed by a chain, which extends from the east¬ 
ern point nearly to the western, and then turns abruptly to 
the southward, almost at a right angle to its former direc- 


Fogo and Bra> 


Tides. 


Soundings. 


Coasts. 


1G ST. ANTONIO—ANCHORAGES, WATER, SHOALS,ETC. 


tion. To the westward of this chain is the Sugar Loaf 
Mountain, the highest summit on the island, (7,386 feet.) 
Between this peak and the main ridge is an immense ravine, 
at the bottom of which a torrent flows towards the north 
coast. The coast of St. Antonio is perfectly safe, all dan¬ 
gers lying close to. It is almost everywhere abrupt except 
at the mouths of the streams; these streams irrigate the 
soil and take the place of rains in fertilizing it. 

Anchorage off Pointa do Sol, or North Point, extends, as a low, sandy,. 

point, some distance from the cliffs, with a reef about £ mile 
beyond it. There is a custom-house here; also a chapel and 
some stores and houses. Anchorage may be taken to the 
west of the point, and WNW. of the custom-house, in from 
8 to 16 fathoms. This anchorage is on the open coast, and 
is sheltered from winds from SW. to SE. (through S.) by 
the island. Although the winds from the northward blow 
directly on this coast, the native seamen affirm that they 
do not blow home at the anchorage, being deflected by the 
high land, and that their existence would not be known 
were it not for the heavy swell which sets in to the anchor¬ 
age. 

Directions. Pass at least 1 mile from North Point to avoid the Cavallo 
Blanco Reef, which extends about £ mile from it, and over 
which the sea continually breaks. After doubling the point 
a white spot will be seen on the rocks, off which the anchor 
may be let go in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, under high cliffs 
which rise perpendicularly from the sea. 

water. Water in small quantities may be obtained from a spring 

near the beach. The landing is in a little creek near the 
village, and is bad when the sea is at all rough. 

Tarrafai Bay. Tarrafal Bay is situated about 2 miles north of South 

Point; it is sheltered from winds from S. to N. (through E.) 
Westerly winds do not blow home, it is said, but sometimes 
there is a swell which produces a surf on the beach. On 
the edge of the bank of soundings, which is £ of a mile off 
shore, there are 40 fathoms, decreasing gradually for 1 cable 
to 8 fathoms, and then falling suddenly to 4 fathoms. 

Shoals. About 300 yards N 16° E. of the south point of the bay 

is a shoal about 1 cable long, with 3 and 4 fathoms on it; off 
its south side are 6, and off the north side 8 fathoms. Two 
hundred yards N 65° W. of the same point there is another 
small patch with 4 fathoms; 5 fathoms off the northern and 
6 fathoms off the southern edge. 

Directions. Tarrafal Bay may be known by a green plantation, and 
a black, sandy beach under a cliff, that come in view after 
rounding South Point. A good berth may be had in 36 





TIDES, WATER, ANCHORAGES—ST. VINCENT. 17 

fathoms, 3 cables off shore, with a red mark in the cliff 
bearing E f N. Caution will be required in anchoring, as 
the shore is steep-to. Anchorage may also be taken at 
about 2 cables off shore and farther to the northward in 20 
fathoms. 

It is high water, full and change, at Tarrafal Bay at 7 b : Tides, 
rise of tide about 5 feet. 

The best water in the group may be obtained here, as also water, 
provisions. 

The anchorage at Carvoeiros, on the SE. coast of the Anchorage 
island, and nearly in front of Porto Grande, in the island of arvoeiros- 
St. Vincent, is on the open coast, and is good only during the 
NE. trades. Anchorage is taken off the mouth of the river 
Janella, abreast the chapel, in from 8 to 14 fathoms, from 1 
to 2 miles from the beach. There is a small village here, and 
plenty of water and fire-wood may be obtained. The landing 
is abreast the houses, but can only be reached by passing 
through a channel 30 feet wide, which is dangerous after 
heavy rains. 

Anchorage may also be taken off Simao, situated LJ miles Anchorage. 
SE. of Carvoeiros, in from 8 to 11 fathoms. It is good dur¬ 
ing the NE. trades only. Water and fire-wood may be 
obtained. 

Santa Cruz, the capital of the island, is 12 miles to the Santa Cruz, 
westward of East Point, in the fertile plain of Ribiera 
Grande. Off the point, If miles to the westward of the vil¬ 
lage, a reef and foul ground extend about a mile, narrow¬ 
ing the channel between St. Antonio and St. Vincent to (3 
miles, in a SE b E. direction. 

One-half mile off the northern part of East Point is a Bun Rock, 
rocky islet called Bull Rock. 

ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT. 

The island of St. Vincent is very high and undulating. 

It is separated from Santa Lucia by a passage about 
miles wide, and from St. Antonio by one from 7 to 8 miles 
wide. The island is 13 miles long from E. to W., and its 
greatest breadlh from £T. to S. is 0 miles. Two principal 
chains facing NE. and SW. surround it, forming in the cen¬ 
ter a deep gorge opening to the NW. on the beautiful val¬ 
ley of Porto Grande. The highest point (2,483 feet) is in the 
middle of the HE. chain. It is principally inhabited by 
fishermen and the numerous workmen attracted thither by 
the coal-depots. The climate is said to be healthy. Water 
is very scarce, and the trees do not flourish, on account of 
2 d v 


18 ST. VINCENT—DIRECTIONS, SOUNDINGS, BOTTOM, ETC. 


Salmassa Bay. 
Dos Gato’s 
Bay. 

Bird Island. 


Porto Grande. 


Points Colum- 
na and Botelha. 


Soundings. 


Bottom 


Directions. 


tlie violence of the winds. The coast is generally high and 
abrupt, and without dangers. 

There are two small bays on the NE. side, with sandy 
beaches, but they are entirely open and are not frequented. 

Bird Island is a rocky islet 273 feet high, GOO yards long 
from N. to S., and 150 yards broad. When seen from the N. 
or S. it appears conical in shape. It is on the parallel of 
Point Oolumna, and about 1 mile from it 5 it is bold, forms 
a good landmark, and may be passed on either side. 

Porto Grande , situated on the NW. side of the island, is 
the largest and best bay in the group; it is 3J miles wide at 
the entrance, from Point Oolumna on the north to Point Bo¬ 
telha on the south, 1J miles deep, and is sheltered from wind 
and sea to the northward by St. Antonio, and on all other sides 
by the high lands which surround it. It is capable of hold¬ 
ing 200 large vessels anchored in from 4 to 13 fathoms, on 
a sand and gravel bottom. With the wind at NE. violent 
squalls often come off the mountains, and all prevailing 
winds send in a swell which is particularly disagreeable if 
the ship is riding to the counter-current and across the 
entrance. 

Point Oolumna is high and abrupt; at the foot of the 
cliff which terminates it is a large rock which, from a dis¬ 
tance, resembles a column. The cliffs near this point, and 
also in the vicinity of Point Botelha, are high and steep. 

Between the points of the entrance the depth is even, 
with 24 fathoms in the center, shoaling gradually on the 
west side to 9 fathoms at J cable from shore ; to the east¬ 
ward there are 17 fathoms within 80 yards of the rocks. In 
the center of the bay the depth is 10 fathoms, shoaling grad¬ 
ually in all directions towards the shore, the Orontes Bank? 
with 21 feet on it, being the only obstruction. The 4-fathom 
limit is about J mile from the bottom of the bay and 1 mile 
from Custom-House Point. The holding-ground is good; 
bottom generally of sand and gravel or sand and mud. 

In the SE. part of the bay the bottom seems to be of rock 
covered with a thick bed of sand ; therefore it will be pru¬ 
dent to cockbill the anchor before letting go, as there are 
numerous cases on record of anchor-stocks being broken 
from not taking this precaution. The water is very clear, 
and on a calm day the bottom can be seen in 7 fathoms. 

Making the laud of the Cape Yerde Islands is sometimes 
difficult on account of the fogs which often prevail, so thick 
at times that St. Antonio cannot be seen from Porto Grande, 
.although only 8 miles distant. When coming from the 
[northward it will be better to run for St. Antonio, whose 


ST. VINCENT—ANCHORAGES AND APPROACHES. 19 

shores are bold and high, than for St. Vincent, whose NE. 
point is low and consequently dangerous. 

From a point 12 miles NE. of St. Vincent its southeast 
point will appear like an island. When off the eastern en¬ 
trance of the channel, between St. Antonio and St. Vincent, 

Bird Island will be easily recognized, as also the curious 
rock off Point Oolumna, and, farther on, Point Botelha, so 
called from the bottle-shaped rock which surmounts it. The 
best course is inside of Bird Island, making allowance for 
the tidal.current which sets to the NE. during the flood. 
Sailing-vessels should reduce sail, as the squalls are heavy 
over the land. When off the entrance, the fort, on a hill 
to the left of the town, will be seen, and about 1 mile N 55° 

E. of the fort a peak, on the summit of which is a flag¬ 
staff used for signaling the approach of the mail-steamers. 

Moorings are laid down in 5 fathoms £ mile W}S. from 
the coaling -jetties ; they are corvettes’ cables, and large 
vessels should not rely on them. If in want of coal a berth 
should be taken as near the buoys as possible, where the Anchorage, 
water is smoother and the squalls less felt than elsewhere. 

A good berth is in from 6 to 7 fathoms, Bird Island bearing 
N 22° W v and the fort 1ST 61° E.; also in 8 fathoms, the sig¬ 
nal-staff bearing X 80° E., the church S 75° E., and Bird 
Island N 25° W. A good berth for a large vessel is in 10 
fathoms, Bird Island bearing N 20° W. and the fort E 3° S. 

During the NE. trade, violent squalls are frequent,, and ves¬ 
sels should always have an anchor ready to let go in case of 
parting or drifting. 

Approaching Porto Grande from the' southward, Bird Approach from 
Island should be left on the port hand. When coming from 
Tarrafal Bay care must be taken not to be set to leeward 
by the current. The NE. winds are very fresh in the pas¬ 
sage between the islands, and the current sets with consider- Approach from 
able velocity to the SW.; hence it will be better to steer to TariatalBay * 
the eastward along St. Antonio for some distance before 
striking across to Porto Grande. 

Going into Porto Grande at night the high land all around Approach r.t 

night. 

is very deceptive, and Bird Island is the only guide: it always 
shows clearly and distinctly even in the darkest nights. After 
passing it bring it to bear NW b N J N., and anchor on 
that bearing in 6 fathoms, sandy bottom, the west point of 
the bay bearing W J S. 

Orontes Bank is a shoal of about 1 cable in extent, with 0rontes 
21 feet of water on it. Its center lies on the following bear¬ 
ings, (taken from chart:) Bird Island N 25° W.; fort N 45° 

E.; church E 3° N. Hydrographische Mittheilungen , No. 19, 


Notice. 


Tide. 

Resources. 

Coal. 

Water. 


San Pedro Bay. 

Still Bay. 


20 TIDES, RESOURCES, COAL, WATER—ST. LUCIA. 

for 1873, states that “ the German sloop of war Undine did 
not find the Orontes Bank as laid down on the charts, but 
there is a 3-fathom patch to the eastward of it;” also “the 
soundings showed somewhat less depth inside the two moor¬ 
ing-buoys than shown on the British Admiralty chart 370 and 
United States Hydrographic Office chart No. 253, which, how¬ 
ever, may arise from the influence of the constant and often 
very high swell. The 3-fathom line trends about a cable’s 
length farther seaward, especially off the town, while the 5 
fathom line approaches somewhat closer to the coa^t.” Ships 
of 20 feet draught and more should not anchor inside the buoy. 

It is high water, full and change, at 7 h . Rise of tide about 
2 £ feet. 

This harbor is the port of call for mail-steamers to and 
from South America and the west coast of Africa, as well 
as for men-of-war vessels of all nations. Coal is brought 
off in bags, in iron barges holding about 20 tons each, towed 
by steam-launches, and is put on board very rapidly. The 
water from the wells is hardly fit for cooking; good distilled 
water may, however, be obtained, but it would be cheaper for 
steam-vessels to distill their own. Other supplies may be 
had to a moderate extent. This harbor is well adapted for 
refitting in and for acclimatizing the crews of vessels going to 
the African station. The climate is healthy and there are 
no endemic diseases. The landings are good alongside the 
coal-wharves. The old fort near the town is armed with four 
old guns, which would probably be dangerous to fire. The 
station is commanded by a major of artillery, who has about 
50 poorly clad Portuguese soldiers under him. 

On the SW. coast is a little bay called San Pedro. Ves¬ 
sels may anchor off the sandy beach in from 10 to 12 fath¬ 
oms during the fine season ; it is entirely open from SE. to 
SW. Water and wood may be obtained there. 

Still Bay is a little cove a few miles to the westward of 
the south point of the island; it is miles wide at the 
entrauce, and anchorage may be taken nearly in the middle 
and just inside of a line joining the two points, in 20 fath¬ 
oms; sand and mud bottom. Landing is easy; the bay is 
open to SW., but good with NE. winds. A bank extends 
from this bay to Porto Grande, J mile from the shore, with 
a depth of 15 fathoms ; bottom of sand and coral. 

ST. LUCIA ISLAND. 

St. Lucia, which is 7 miles long ESE. and WNW., 2 miles 
broad in its western and 1 mile in the eastern part, is sep¬ 
arated from St. Vincent by a channel 44 miles wide, and 


ST. LIT CIA—AN CHOR AGE, RUINS, ETC.—BRANCA. 21 

from Branca by one 3J miles wide. In the middle of the 
latter there are 13 fathoms, decreasing gradually toward 
either shore. There is no fixed population, and the island 
is visited only by herdsmen and laborers, who come in March 
to collect orchilla in the mountains. 

The eastern partis high and covered with hummocks. 
When seen at a distance from N. or S. it appears like an 
island. From thence it is low to the south point, where it 
rises to about 1,000 feet, and continues high toward the NW., 
where it is traversed by a range of hills running WNW. 
and ESE. The highest point (1,209 feet) is in the middle 
of the island. 

The shore is almost everywhere rocky and inaccessible; 
but in the SW. part, between Pointa da Cruz and Monte 
Grande, (the south and west points,) there is a little cove, 
with a sandy beach, off which vessels may anchor in from 
7 to 14 fathoms, sand and stony bottom, with Leon Island 
bearing ENE. Leon Island is quite high, and about 200 
yards from the beach, in the SE. part of the cove, the bot¬ 
tom is rocky. This anchorage is only good during the fine 
season. 

A little to the northward of the south point of the island, 
(Pointa da Cruz,) which is crowned with a conical height of 
900 feet, are the ruins of a village and some wells of brack¬ 
ish water. The south coast trends E. and W., and a plateau 
of shoals, on which there are from 13 to 16 feet, extends 
along it about J mile from the shore. There is a good land¬ 
ing in a little indentation situated nearly in the middle of 
this coast. 

In navigating between St. Lucia and Branca the S. and 
E. parts of St. Lucia should not be approached within one 
mile, as the ground is uneven. There are soundings, also, 
2 or 3 miles to windward of St. Lucia, and the water is dis¬ 
colored, which may serve as a guide in approaching the 
island. 


BRANCA ISLAND. 

Branca, lying SE. of St. Lucia, is a small island 2 miles 
long and about J mile broad. It is high and almost inac¬ 
cessible, except in very fine weather. Monte Gordo, in the 
west, is 1,456 feet high. The east point is low and sandy, 
and has a reef extending out about two cables. Vessels 
may anchor off the point in 3 fathoms, but the squalls 
oil' Monte Gordo are very heavy. The NE. coast is steep, 
with from 6 to 10 fathoms close to; J mile off the 8W. 
shore the soundings vary from 12 to 15 fathoms. The port 


Anchorage 


Leon Island 


Ruins. 

Wells 

Shoals. 

Caution. 


Anchorage. 


22 BRANCA, RAZA, ST. NICHOLAS—DESCRIPTIONS. 

and village of Branca are on the northwest side of the 
island. Orchilla abounds. Fresh water may be obtained 
near the village. It is high water, full and change, at St. 
Lucia and Branca about 8 b . The flood sets to the west¬ 
ward and the ebb to the eastward with a velocity of 2 knots 
during the springs. 


RAZA ISLAND. 

Baza lies 3 miles SE. of Branca, with irregular sound¬ 
ings between them of from 6 to 20 fathoms. The island is 
almost round and the shores are steep and nearly inacces¬ 
sible. The highest point on the island is 316 feet; in its 
eastern part there are a number of hillocks. There is a bad 
lauding on the west side near the west point. There are a 
few inhabitants, who gather orchilla and tend the cotton- 
: plantations. The latest French directions state that at one* 

; third of the distance from Baza to Branca there is a coral 
plateau, running NNE. and SSW., on which the least 
depth is 5.3 fathoms, increasing gradually to the west to 
14J fathoms, and to the east to 17 and 20 fathoms. It is 
recommended, in taking this passage, to approach Baza 
rather than Branca. These soundings do not agree exactly 
with the English charts. The sea is said always to break 
on this bank, on account of the strong -tide or current set¬ 
ting through. 

ST. NICHOLAS ISLAND. 

The island of St. Nicholas is irregular in shape; it is 25 
miles long from E. to W., and its.greatest breadth is 13 
miles. The eastern point forms a low plateau, remarkable 
for a pyramidal rock, which at a little distance resembles a 
sail. The western point is low and sandy. The northwest 
portion is the highest, where Monte Gordo attains an eleva¬ 
tion of 4,415 feet; to the northward of this is Mount Marti¬ 
nez, which is 3,412 feet high ; from thence high mountains 
extend to the eastward, conspicuous among them being the 
Sugar-Loaf (2,007 feet) near the middle of the island. In 
clear weather these mountains can be seen 45 miles. The 
coast is bold and cliffy. There are no anchorages on the north 
coast, and it should not be approached nearer than 3 miles, 
on account of the currents and the calms produced by the 
high land. The climate is*very healthy and the soil well 
cultivated. The inhabitants, 7,000 in number, are indus¬ 
trious. The products are vegetables, fruits, and corn, and 
also about 400 pipes of wine. The imports are lumber, 
glass ware, and iron. Praya Branca, situated in the mount- 




ST. NICHOLAS—WATER, TIDES, ANCHORAGE, ETC. 23 

ains to the NW., and about 3 miles from the coast, is the 
most important place; it contains about 300 houses. 

Freshwater or Oarrical Bay is 3£ miles west of East Freshwater 
Point. In a ravine at the bottom of the bay the river Oar- 5 
rical empties into a pond from which good water may be 
obtained. During the fine season the anchorage is exposed 
to violent squalls which come off the hills, and although the 
wind blows off shore the sea is very rough close up to the 
beach. Vessels only come here for water. 

When coming from the eastward care must be taken to Directions, 
avoid a reef, which from about 2J miles west of East Point 
extends out J mile from the shore, over which the sea breaks. 

After passing the eastern point of Freshwater Bay, steer in 
for the beach, and when the coast to the eastward is shut in 
by this point let go the anchor in 7 fathoms, J mile from 
shore, on a sand and gravel bottom. This anchorage must 
not be attempted during stormy weather; in this case it is 
better to anchor in St. George’s Bay. Water should be Water, 
taken at low tide; the tide rises 6J feet and at high water Tides, 
the pond is overflowed. The lauding is good during fine 
weather. The establishment in this bay is 7 11 46 m . 

On the eastern side of the tongue of land which extends Saint George’s 
to the southward, and 10 miles west of Freshwater Bay, is Bay ' 
au anchorage in St. George’s Bay, called Rolla Boad, where Eoiia Road, 
provisions and a small quantity of water may be obtained. 

This roadstead is 5| miles north of South Point, and is 
easily recognized by the conical Mount Formosa which over¬ 
looks it, and also by the flag-staff of Fort Preguiz, which is 
situated on a height near the shore. Off Point Ellicombe, 
the northeast point of the bay, a rocky shelf extends SE. about 
1 cable, and off the southern point, Point Krabbe, there is a 
line of breakers which should not be approached nearer 
than | of a mile. Anchorage is taken at 2 good cables Anchorage, 
from the beach, in from 10 to 13 fathoms, sandy bottom; 
the flag-staff on the fort bearing N 74° VV. From 9 fathoms Soundings, 
the soundings increase rapidly to 17, 35, and 52 fathoms; 
aud as outside of 9 fathoms the bottom is rocky, vessels 
must anchor near the shore. Violent squalls off the mount¬ 
ains are frequent. There is a good landing in a little cove 
about 2 cables south of the anchorage; a small island, 
lying off it, shelters it from the sea. There are here a few 
houses and a custom-house, and the place is much fre¬ 
quented on account of its vicinity to Ribeira Brava, the 
capital of the island. 

No particular directions are required. Steer for Mount Directions. 
Formosa, when seen, and anchor, as stated above, when the 


24 ST. NICHOLAS—BAYS, WATER, SOUNDINGS, COAST, ETC. 

♦ 

fort bears N 74° W. If coming from tbe southward allow¬ 
ance must be made for the current, which sets to the south 
toward Point Vermelharia. Be sure of the soundings before 
letting go the anchor. If a pilot is wanted, fire a gun. 
ForcadoBay. Between Preguiza and Point Vermelharia there are sev¬ 
eral small coves. The first, called Forcado, is situated be¬ 
tween two rocky points surrounded by breakers; in-shore 
the depths are from 11 to 22 feet, increasing suddenly, 1 mile 
from the beach, to 28 arid 50 fathoms. There is another 
small bay on the south coast, between Points Vermelharia 
LapaBay. and Fidalgo, called Lapa Bay, which is good during the 
NE. trades. Water and refreshments may be obtained. 
Tarrafai Bay. Tarrafal Bay is 5J miles to the northward of the south 
point of the island, (Pqiut Vermelharia,) and is open from 
SW. to W. At | of a mile from the beach there is a depth 
of 45 fathoms, and from thence the soundings decrease regu¬ 
larly but rapidly to 8 fathoms. The custom-house is in the 
SE. angle of the bay. A good berth may be taken in 
about 10 fathoms on the following bearings: South Point 
SSE £ E., custom-house E b S J S., and Mount Otto do 
Mar NbE. The anchorage is sheltered from SE. winds, 
and it is said that those from the SW. never blow T with force. 
Violent gusts often come from the two gullies to the east¬ 
ward, and therefore when the wind is strong from the NE. 
it is very difficult to turn into the bay. To avoid these 
flaws, vessels must anchor right against the point which 
divides the gullies, where they will ride easy under its lee 
„ . in about 15 fathoms. There is said to be a current setting 

into the bay; therefore, when coming from the southward, 
a good berth should be given to the coast, for if becalmed 
under the land a vessel might be drifted on shore, 
water. Water may be easily obtained, as also provisions, from 

the houses of the shepherds near the anchorage. Bibeira 
Brava is 0 miles in the interior. ‘ 

coast. From Tarrafal Bay to the west point of St. Nicholas there 

Soundings. j s a bank of soundings with from 40 to 20 fathoms J mile 

Anchorage, from shore. In the last depth there is anchorage on sandy 
ground off the west point. The shore is low and sandy, the 
land rising gradually inland. On the contrary, from the 
custom-house to South Point the coast is high and lined 
with rocks. 

Northwest A little to the northward of West Point, and in front of 
Mt. Gonedo and the village of Praya Branca, is a small bay, 
with an islet in the middle called Northwest Bay; it is 
suitable only for small craft. 


SAL ISLAND—COAST, REEFS, ROCKS, AND RESOURCES. 25 

From West Point the coast trends about NE. for 7 miles, 
where the north point of the island is formed by a round, 
cliffy point having a summit 2,311 feet high. At the north¬ 
west side of the point is a sand bank, and a reef of rocks 
stretches to the northward 5 cables. E b S J S., 8 miles dis¬ 
tant, is Northeast Point, the coast between forming a bight 
24 miles deep. Eastward of the point the coast trends E 
by S. for 13 miles to East Point, and is composed principally 
of cliffs having rocks or sand at their bases. 

SAL ISLAND. 

Sal Island is 17J miles long from N. to S., 7 miles broad 
in the widest and 2 miles in the narrowest part. In the 
northern part are several isolated peaks, the highest being 
the conic il Martinez, which is 1,340 feet high, and in clear 
weather may be seen from a distance of 50 or 60 miles. The 
southern part is low and sandy. 

The northern and eastern shores are abrupt and cliffy, 
and along the latter coast there is an almost continuous 
line of reefs and breakers. To the northward of East Point, 
(which is marked by a little conical hill on the edge of the 
cliff,) and off Point Serra Negra, several islets and rocks ex¬ 
tend out about 4 mile, but are inside of the meridian of the 
Eastern Point. The southeast point of the island is called 
Wreck Point, the English sloop of war Erne having been 
wrecked there in 1819. It is low, sandy, and surrounded by a 
reef. Great caution is required in approaching the southern 
point at night, as the land can hardly be seen 10 miles off, 
even in the day-time. The lead should be kept going, and 
vessels should not get inside of the 30-fathom line. Horn 
Point is the northwestern point of the island: it is a cliff sur¬ 
mounted by a hillock. From this point the coast deepens 
to Manuel Point situated to the northward of Northwest Hill; 
from thence it trends toward the south, forming a number of 
little bays. The anchorages are all bad on the NW., N., and 
E. coasts. From Wreck Point to Northwest Hill the depths 
vary, permitting an anchorage in some of the bays. 

There are numerous salt-ponds on the island, and the salt 
extracted is the principal production of the island. The 
soil, even in the valleys, is so barren as to bear no trees nor 
verdure except a few inconsiderable shrubs. A railroad has 
been built to carry the salt to the shore. The only village 
on the island is in South Bay, (Santa Maria,) situated on 
the south coast. It is difficult to procure either water or 
provisions. 


North Point. 

Northeas 

Point. 


Martinez Peak. 

Coast. 

Reefs. 

Rocks. 

Wreck Point. 

Horn Point. 

Manuel Point. 

Resources. 

Village. 


26 SAL ISLAND—CURRENTS, ANCHORAGES, WATER, ETC. 


Currents. 

Making land. 

South Bay. 

Anchorage. 

Caution. 


Port Salina. 

Mordeira Bay. 

Anchorage. 

Water. 

Tides. 

Turtle Point. 

Lion’s Head. 

Bird Island. 


On approaching Sal from the north it will frequently be 
found that the currents are strong, irregular, and influenced 
by the wind, this island being almost on the western limit 
of the African-Polar current. In clear weather the island may 
be seen from a distance of 40 miles; sometimes Martinez Peak 
can be seen still further ; these are exceptional cases, however, 
as the high lands of all the Cape Verde Islands are generally 
covered with clouds. 

South Bay lies between Wreck Point and South Point; 
these points are distant from each other 2 miles, bearing W 
3 S. and E f X. 

Anchorage may be taken in 7 fathoms in the middle of the 
bay, just inside of a line joining the two points. Too great- 
caution cannot, however, be exercised in navigating near 
South Point, as a sandy spit extends from it nearly 1 mile 
SE J S., with 14 fathoms close to and 25 fathoms at 1J miles. 
Wreck Point is low and fronted by rocks for 3 mile. The 
soundings in the bay near the beach vary from 3 to 4 fath¬ 
oms, and in the middle from 5 to 10 fathoms. To enter the 
bay Wreck Point must be rounded at 1J miles, in irom 9 to 
12 fathoms, and the anchor let go when the two points are 
in line. Vessels may also anchor on the west side of South 
Point in 7 fathoms, J mile off shore, with Wreck Poiut just 
shut in. This anchorage is called Port Salina, it being near 
the artificial-salt pans 

Mordeira Bay, situated between Turtle Point and the Lion’s 
Head, is the best anchorage in the island. It is sheltered 
from X. to XE. One mile off shore the soundings are 9,10, or 
11 fathoms, decreasing gradually to the rocks, near which 
there are 1J and 2 fathoms. In some places the bottom is. 
bad, and thesoundings should be examined before anchoring. 
The best berth is in 9 fathoms, 1 mile from the Lion’s Head, 
with Bird Island just shut in and Turtle Point bearing S 
by E 3 E. Xo water can be obtained. Fish and turtles 
abound. 

It is high water, full and change, at 7 h 45™. Rise of tide 
about 5.2 feet. 

Turtle Point is a low, irregular point of land, surrounded 
by rocks and breakers, near which are 3 and 6 fathoms, 
with 16 fathoms 1 mile off shore. 

Lion’s Head Point is high and overlooked by a hill whose 
form gives its name to the point. This hill is 620 feet high. 
Off the point lies Bird Island, which is a small island con¬ 
nected to it by rocks. From it Turtle Poiut bears SE 3 S. 
distant 4 miles. 


SAL ISLAND, PALMIRA BAY—BOAVISTA, DESCRIPTION OF. 27 


Palmira Bay lies between the Lion’s Head and Palmira 
Point. It is 3J miles wide, but not very deep. Anchorage 
may be taken 1 mile from the shore, in from 10 to 17 fathoms, 
or, closer in, in from 8 to 5 fathoms; it is entirely open and 
there is usually a heavy sea. Between Palmira Point and 
Northwest Hill the soundings vary from 29 fathoms at 1 mile 
off shore to 17 fathoms close to it. 

Bonetta Bock, which was said to exist in lat. 16° 17' 20", 
N., long. 22° 23' 50" W., has been searched for frequently, 
but has never been found. It is probable that the vessels 
reported to have been wrecked on this rock were drifted to 
SW. by the current, and lost on Hartwell Reefs off the north¬ 
east coast of Boavista. 

The currents in the vicinity of Boavista Island are very 
irregular. Their general direction is between S. and W. 
Near Sal Island they have been found setting N 75° W. and 
N 8° W. Their average velocity is about J mile per hour. 
Great caution is required, therefore, in approaching the 
coast of Boavista, and considerable difference will often be 
found between the dead-reckoning and the true position, 
owing to these currents. There is no doubt that many 
vessels have been lost on Hartwell and Braithwaite Reefs 
when they were supposed to be many miles to the eastward 
of Boavista. 


BOAVISTA ISLAND. 

Boavista, one of the largest islands in the group, is in 
shape an irregular polygon; it is 18 miles across from E. to 
W., and 1G miles from N. to S. A ridge of high land, run¬ 
ning NNW. and SSE., divides it into two unequal parts. 
The northern peak of this chain is called Juan Fernandez, 
and the southern, South Mountain. In the northeast part of 
the island are the two conical hills, Mounts Broyal and Ochel- 
lo, and in the southwest Platform Hill and Man Mountain- 
The climate is considered healthy. The inhabitants, 5,000 in 
number, are noted for their extreme indolence. Cattle- 
breeding is the principal resource of the island, large quan¬ 
tities of hides and tallow being exported annually. The 
salt-ponds are very rich, and about 117,800 bushels of salt 
are exported each year. The greater portion is obtained 
from the artificial pans to the northward of English Road, 
but the best comes from the natural ponds in the northern 
part of the island. Some attempts have been made to raise 
cotton, but without success. 

With the exception of the principal headlands, the coast is 
almost everywhere low and sandy. The northeast point is 


Palmira Bay. 
Anchorage. 

Bonetta llock. 


Currents. 


Coast. 

N. E. Point. 


28 BOAVISTA—DESCRIPTIONS, REEFS, ISLETS, ETC. 


East Sand 
Head. 


Brazen Hill 
Point. 


South Point. 


West Point. 


Reef. 


Coral Point. 


North Point. 


Bluff Beef. 


Broyal Point. 


Porto do Norte. 


Reefs and isl¬ 
ets. 


high and lined with breakers. From thence the coast curves 
slightly to East Sand Head or Point Orratao, and is every¬ 
where low and sandy. Off the latter point a sand bank ex¬ 
tends 1 mile NE., and a short.distance south another reef 
stretches about the same distance to the eastward. 

Point Estancia or Brazen Hill Bluff bears SW f W. from the 
preceding. It is a high cliff easily recognized by the conical 
height (East Hill) which surmounts it. From thence the coast 
curves slightly toward the southward to South Point or Point 
Urrateo, and is everywhere low. South Point is low and sur¬ 
rounded by foul ground, and an islet of the same description 
lies § of a mile to the eastward. Between this point and 
West Point the coast is low; the latter is a low, sandy point 
projecting some distance to the westward. Nearly midway 
between this point and Coral Point, and a little to the south¬ 
ward of the parallel of Coral Hill, a long reef extends per¬ 
pendicularly to the coast 1 mile, and from thence to Coral 
Point the shore is lined with breakers. 

Point Yerandinha or Coral Point is low and rocky. From 
thence the coast deepens, forming a long bay called English 
Road. From the northern part of the bay to North Point 
the coast is irregular and lined with foul ground. North 
Point is high and abrupt, and may be recognized by Peak 
Resher which overlooks it; it is surrounded by foul ground. 
SW. of the point, and about \ mile off shore, is Bluff Reef, 
on which the sea continually breaks. Between North Point 
and Point Broyal, on the north side of the island, the coast 
deepens and is low and sandy. There are several reefs near¬ 
ly in aline joining the two points. Point Broyal is very 
irregular in shape and of moderate height. It may be recog¬ 
nized by a peak of the same name which rises a little to the 
southward. 

Between Point Hartwell, the northeast [point of the isl¬ 
and, and East Sand Head, lies a large bay called by the Portu¬ 
guese Porto do Norte. It is open to the NE., and affords a 
poor anchorage with the wind from that quarter. Off this 
bay are the Hartwell Reefs, North Cay, and Braithwaite and 
Hutch Islets, surrounded by reefs. Between these there is 
sufficient depth for ships, and a good holding-ground to lee¬ 
ward of Hartwell and Braithwaite. North Cay is nearest 
the coast, and is connected with it by a line of reefs. This 
anchorage should only be taken in case of necessity or during 
the rainy season by vessels loading with salt from the neigh¬ 
boring salt-works. 

The Hartwell reefs and islets, which we have mentioned 
form three channels through which vessels may pass to 


BOAVISTA—CHANNELS, DIRECTIONS, RESOURCES, ETC. 29 
reach the anchorage. The best one is between Braithwaite Middle ciiau- 

° nel 

and Butch Islets; it is about If miles wide, and the sound¬ 
ings are regular from 14J to 5 fathoms. Anchorage may 
be taken in from 5 to 7 fathoms J mile to leeward of Braith¬ 
waite, this islet bearing N 41° E., and Dutch Islet S 30° E. 

The holding-ground is fair. 

Hartwell Beef is about If miles from the coast, and be- North Channel, 
tween its northwestern extremity and North Cay there is a 
channel J mile wide. The least depth in this passage is 7 
fathoms. This reef is very dangerous, as the currents here 
set directly on it, and it must be carefully avoided when 
taking the passages. It is composed of detached rocks, on 
which there are only 9 and 13 feet of water, with depths of 
22 feet in the spaces between them. North Gay is J mile 
from the coast, to which it is joined by a bank on which 
there is only 6 feet of water. 

Between the reef around Dutch Islet and the reef off East South Channel. 
Sand Head there is another channel, 6 cables wide, with a 
depth of 10 fathoms. 

Vessels should never attempt any of these passes without Directions, 
having a boat ahead to take soundings and show the way. 

In going from the anchorage to the SE. with the wiud from 
ENE. or NE., steer to the southward, taking advantage of 
the easterly current which generally prevails in the bay, 
and pass between Dutch Island and the spit off East 
Sand Head. If the wiud prevents taking this channel, steer 
to the eastward between Braithwaite and Dutch Islands. 

When in the vicinity of Hartwell Beef, if not bound to Caution. 
Porto do Norte, the north point of Boavista should be kept 
open of Broyal Point bearing W f S., and the southeast bluff 
of the island open of the East Point bearing SW. § S. Too 
great caution cannot be exercised at night or in thick 
weather. 

This bay is frequented, as has been stated above, by ves- Resources; 
sels coming for salt during the rainy season. Fish abound, 
and a small quantity of provisions may be obtained from 
the village of San Joao Baptista]do Norte, which is about 
3 miles from the anchorage. 

In case of necessity, or to take a pilot, vessels may anchor Curraiinho. 
between South Point and South Island in frbm 10 to 12 
fathoms ; this anchorage is good with the wind at NE., but 
at other times is dangerous. 

To the westward of South Point is an anchorage in what K ^° rt aguese 
is called Portuguese Boad. The best berth is in 14 fathoms, 
about 1 mile from shore, Platform Hill bearing N 3G° W., 
and South Island just shut in by South Point. From this 


30 BO AVISTA—ENGLISH ROAD, SMALL ISLAND, REEFS, ETC. 

anchorage the soundings diminish gradually to 7 and 6 fath¬ 
oms. In leaving this anchorage and going to the westward 
a wide berth must be given to the point below Platform 
Reef. Hill, as there is said to be a reef extending from it 3J miles 

to seaward, on which the sea sometimes breaks. This reef is 
not laid down on the charts, and a very wide berth should 
therefore be given to the point. 

Coral Reef. Veraudiuha or Coral Reef is on the parallel of Coral Hill, 
and 1§ miles from the shore; it is § of a mile from E. to W., 
and a little less than £ mile from N. to S.; its center bears 
SW. b W J W., distant 2| miles from Coral Point. The 
sea usually breaks on it, and sometimes shows the central 
part out of water. 

English Road. Porto Sal Rey or English Road lies to the northward of 
Coral Point, (Point Verandinha.) Near the beach, in the 
middle of the bay, is the village of Rahil or New Town, 
founded in 1810 ; its church-clock makes a good mark in 
approaching the anchorage. Between this village.and Old 
Town, or Sal Rey, which is in the northern part, are numer¬ 
ous salt-pans. Near the old town is a mole where boats can 
land at all times. The shores of the bay are principally sandy, 
small island. Small Island is J mile from the northern point of the bay, 
and is connected with it by a bank of rocks, over which 
small boats can pass in hue weather; it is 1 mile long, 
from NW. to SE.; a bank extends J mile from its north¬ 
west extremity. 

Ten-Foot Reef. English Road is 4J miles wide from Coral Point to the 
southeast point of Small Island; the entrance is divided into 
two passes by the Ten-Foot Reef, a dangerous bank with only 
10 feet of water on it, and on which the sea usually breaks; 
this reef is 1^ cables long from E to W., and about 105 
yards broad; its center lies on the following bearings: £ 
mile SW J S. of the SE. point, and 1J miles S J E. of the 
northwest point of Small Island, and 3J miles NNE. of Coral 
Point. In the passage between the reef and island there 
is a depth of 0 fathoms. The shore of the latter is bold 
and may be kept close aboard. 

R<Sf W Town This ree f * s abreast New Town, and about 100 yards from 
the beach, with 9 fathoms off the western edge, 
inner Reef. This reef is m the northern part of the bay and close to the 
shore. The sea breaks on it when rough. It is J mile S 
82° E. of the southeast point of Small Island. There are 3 
fathoms at 4 cables from its western edge. A bank, with 
from J to 1 fathom of water on it, extends from New Town 
Reef to Inner Reef, and from thence to the reef extending 
from Small Island to the shore. 


BO AVISTA—DIRECTIONS, TIDES, ROLLERS, WATER. 31 

Vessels generally anchor southeast of and near to Small 
Island, in G or 7 fathoms, keeping Old Town open with the 
northeast point of the island, the highest point of the latter 
bearing N 7° W. This anchorage is sheltered from N. to SSE., 
but is exposed to the westward. With the wind at NW. the 
sea is very heavy, and it is better at such a time to put to 
sea. Rollers occur between January and March, and are 
very heavy and render the anchorage unsafe. Some author¬ 
ities say that vessels with chain-cables can lie with perfect 
safety at all times, but undoubtedly this would be attended 
with considerable risk, and it would be more prudent to 
make an offing. 

When coming from the northward, (which is the best 
point of approach with a northeast wind,) steer for the north¬ 
west point of Small Island, and when £ mile past it steer for 
the church in New Town, and anchor when on the bearings 
given above. When the pass on Small Island and Peak Kosh¬ 
er are in line, the Ten-Foot Reef is passed. Sometimes, on 
account of a rock under water off the southeast point of the 
island, vessels keep on farther to the eastward and anchor in 
the same depth (G or 7 fathoms,) with Small Island open on the 
north point of the bay; this route obviates the necessity of 
making a tack to reach the anchorge. If Ten-Foot Reef does 
not show, wishing to pass to the southward of it, steer out¬ 
side, and when the church in New Town bears E b S., stand in 
for it, going no nearer the reef than G fathoms; after once 
opening Old Town, take care not to close it again. This 
course will take you about f of a mile from the reef. 

In the middle of a line joining Coral Point and Ten-Foot 
Reef there are 10 and 11 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 
the N. and S. to 6 and 7 fathoms. In beating up from the 
southward, with the wind at NE. it will be better, after 
doubling Coral Reef, to stand off on the starboard tack far 
enough to make the anchorage on the in shore or port tack, 
passing to the southward of the reef as described above. 
Sometimes vessels anchor west of the church, in 8 or 10 
fathoms, with the southeast point of Small Island and Peak 
Resher in line, thus avoiding the danger of beating near the 
reef. The bottom at this anchorage is of tine white saud. 

The establishment of the port is 7 hours. Tide rises 5.2 
feet. 

During the rainy season storms and variable winds pre¬ 
vail, and the rollers are often very heavy, rendering the 
anchorages unsafe. 

There is very little water for shipping on the island. Por¬ 
tuguese Roads is the best place to obtain it, but it is not 


Anchorage. 


Directions. 


Tides. 

Rollers. 

Water, &c. 


Soundings. 


Caution, 


la-ton Itock. 


Soundings. 


32 BOAVISTA—SOUNDINGS, CAUTION, LETON ROCK. 

good and costs considerable. A small quantity of freslj pro¬ 
visions may be obtained, being brought from St. Antonio 
and St. Vincent. Fisli abound in all the bays. 

Oft the west, north, and east coasts the bank of sound¬ 
ings is quite wide; nine miles to the westward of Coral Point 
there are 58 fathoms; tine sandy bottom. The soundings 
decrease gradually toward English Road, to 30 fathoms at 

4 miles from and on the parallel of New Town, and to 11 
fathoms at 1J miles from the beach. At the same distances 
west of the northern part of the bay the depths are much 
greater. At 9 miles off shore, to the northward of Small 
Island, are 76 fathoms, decreasing to 23 fathoms at 2 miles. 
On the meridian of North Point, and 7 miles from the point, 
are 67 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 20 fathoms at 1 
mile. Between this point and Point Broyal the bank is 
about the same, but to avoid the reefs scattered between 
these points, vessels should not go inside of 26 or 24 fathoms. 

To the eastward of Point Broyal the limit of the bank 
with 54 fathoms on it is only 3J miles from shore, and it is 
still narrower off Northeast Point. From thence to East Sand 
Head the limit is a little to the eastward of Hartwell Beefs. 
Oft* the northeast coast the plateau extends a considerable 
distance seaward, and the depths are very irregular, varying 
from 30 to 200 fathoms. 

If approaching the island in thick weather the soundings 
will be a good guide as to the position, and the lead should 
always be kept going. 

In clear weather the dangers around Boavistashow them¬ 
selves, but when misty it is not advisable to approach the 
island, as the eurreuts are strong and irregular. 

Leton Bock is a dangerous patch lying SVV. of Boavista, 
in the passage between that island and Mayo; it is about 
1 mile long, N. and S., and is just under the surface of the 
water, so that at; times the sea breaks over it with great 
violence. From the middle of the patch the south point of 
Boavista (Point Horatio) bears N 64° E., distant 21J miles; 
Coral Hill N 34° E., 19.7 miles; north point of Mayo S 5° 
W., 28J miles. The position of its center on the chart is 15° 
47' 50 // N., 23° 09' 50" W. 

This rock is the summit of a coral plateau, or coral mixed 
with sand and broken shells, which is about 15 miles long in a 
north and south direction, and 9 miles broad in an east and 
west direction; it has never been accurately surveyed. On 
the plateau around the rock are the following soundings: 

5 miles N. 74 fathoms, fine sand with reddish specks; 2J miles 
N. 55 fathoms, fine sand, small shells or broken shells; 1J 


MAYO ISLAND—DESCRIPTION, REEFS, ROCKS, ETC. 33 

miles N. W. 35 and 43 fathoms, fine sand and white coral • 
1.7 miles E. 38 and 40 fathoms, fine sand; 2 miles W. 63 
fathoms, coral, sand, and broken shells; 3.2 miles S. 39 
fathoms, fine sand and shells, and at 3.7 miles SE. 45 
fathoms, fine white sandy bottom. 

In passing through the channel which separates Boavista 
from Mayo, it is better to keep near one shore or the other 
and avoid the mid-channel. The sea does not break over 
Leton Bock, except when rough, and as the currents set to 
the west great caution is required. During foggy weather 
the passage should not be attempted. 

MAYO ISLAND. 

The island of Mayo lies 44 miles SSW. of Boavista; it 
is elliptical in shape, being 12J miles long north and south, 
with an average breadth of 6J miles east and west. The 
island is moderately high, and may be seen in very clear 
weather 30 or 35 miles when making the hills in the east¬ 
ern part. The central part of the island is level, while to 
the eastward are Mounts San Antonio, Pinos, and Mayo. 
Between Antonio and Pinos there is a large valley opening 
to the westward. In the southwest part of the island is a 
group of three peaks, of which Mount Balalha is the most 
conspicuous. These three peaks, when seen from NNW. or 
SSE., appear in line. . 

The east side of the island is generally rocky; the remain¬ 
der has low and sandy points. When approaching the 
island from theSE., and at about 15 miles, it appears like a 
group of islets, because at this distance the low sandy pla¬ 
teaux which connect the heights cannot be seen. 

The soil of Mayo is generally dry and unproductive. There 
is only one spring of water in the island. The coast is plen¬ 
tifully stocked with fish, which supply, with a few vegetable 
productions, subsistence to the poor inhabitants. 

The north point of the island is low and narrow, jutting 
out about 1J miles in a N b W. direction, with detached 
rocks on its east and west sides for one mile. 

One and a half miles N 58° E. of North Point is a very 
dangerous cluster of rocks called Galhao Beef. It is 1 mile 
in extent in a NNE. and SSW. direction. The outer part 
of the reef bears NE. b E. from North Point, and the inner 
edge E J N. No soundings have ever been made near this 
reef. This part of the coast should be approached with 
great caution, as 6 miles N J E. of Galhao Beef there is a 
bank extending east and west, on which the least depth of 
water obtained is 45 fathoms, fine sand, with red specks, with 
3 D y 


Caution. 


North Point. 


Galhao Reef. 


v 


34 MAYO ISLAND—ANCHORAGES, SUPPLIES, TIDES, ETC. 


Coast. 

South Point. 

Blisset Reef. 


English Road. 


Anchorage. 

Water. 

Landing. 

Supplies. 

Tide. 

Soundings. 


more than 130 fathoms between it and the bank around 
Leton Rock. 

From North Point around to East Point the coast is gen¬ 
erally rocky and lined with breakers. East Point is low 
and sandy. 

The south end of the island is low and terminates in a 
sandy point; from thence the coast runs in nearly a straight 
line to Town Point, which is foul for four cables. 

Two miles W J N. of South Point, and J of a mile off 
shore, is a sunken reef with 7 fathoms a short distance out¬ 
side of it. Salt-pan Point, open on Town Point, and bear¬ 
ing NW J W., clears it on its southwest side. A little to the 
westward and closer in shore is another little patch with 3 
and 5 fathoms near it. 

Salt-pan Point is the southwest point of the island, and 
forms the northwest limit of English Road. 

Rocky Point is the northwest extreme of the island; the 
south part of the point is rocky and foul. 

English Road is a small bay situated between Salt pan 
Point and Town Point. It is sheltered from winds to the 
north and east, but entirely open to the southwest; vessels 
may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms near the beach. Everything 
should be in readiness to get under way during the wet season, 
as the anchorage is dangerous during a westerly gale. A 
flag-staff on the hillock to the northward of the village is a 
good mark for recognizing the anchorage. 

To take anchorage, bring Flag-staff Hill inline with Mount 
Balalha and anchor in 7 fathoms very near the shore. 
Approaching this anchorage caution is requisite, as the bank 
of soundings is very steep. 

No good water can be had at this anchorage; there is a 
well near the salt-pans, but the water obtained from it is 
very indifferent. Landing, as a rule, is very bad. The vil¬ 
lage contains a custom-house, church, and a battery, and 
near it are always enormous piles of salt ready for exporta¬ 
tion. The shore abreast the town is steep, bluff, and rocky. 
There is a crane here for loading and unloading boats. 

Superior cattle are bred on the island; salt is produced 
in great quantities, and fish are plentiful, but wood and water 
are scarce. 

It is high water, full and change, at 6 l1 30 ra . Approximate 
rise of tide 5 feet. 

The bank of soundings off English Road is very narrow- 
at J mile from shore the depth is 44 fathoms, decreasing to 
7 fathoms at J of a mile, so that the anchorage given above 
will be J of a mile from the point on the parallel of the vil- 


MAYO II.—SOUNDINGS, ETC—ST. JAGO—DESCRIPTION. 35 

lage. The bottom on this bank is of coral and sand, and 
vessels must not anchor outside of 15 fathoms, as this depth 
is almost on the limit of the bank. 

A little to the southward of Rocky Foint there is quite a Caiheta Bay. 
deep bay called Caiheta; it is almost everywhere lined 
with rocks, one being nearly on a line between the north and 
south points of the bay. This bay is only frequented by small 
crafts. Rocky Point can be recognized by some palm-trees Rocky Point, 
and brushwood growing a little inland from it. 

To the southward of Foul Point is another small bay BayofPanSec- 
with 7 fathoms, with a sandy bottom, in its northern part $ 
it is protected to the S. and SE., but is little frequented. 

The bank of soundings around Mayo has never been sur- soundings, 
veyed except off its northern coast; here it is 11 miles wide, 
and at that distance off shore the soundings vary from 47 
to 65 fathoms. The nature of the bottom is variable; in 
some places it is coral, and in others sand, with red specks 
or fine gray sand. 

The northeast winds are generally very fresh in the channel Directions, 
between Mayo and St. Jago. As before stated, the east 
coast of St. Jago must not be approached very close on 
account of the calms and currents which prevail in its vi¬ 
cinity. Vessels leaving English Road, bound for St. Jago, 
should steer well to the westward, and when Leton Rock is 
doubled, steer direct for the channel between Mayo and that 
island, rounding its eastern point. 

ST. JAGO. 

St. Jago, the largest and most populous island of the Cape 
Verde group, is about 31 miles long, in a north-northwest 
and south-southwest direction, with a general width of 12 
miles, taperin g to 4 miles at its north point. The population is 
24,000, and the island is the most frequented, from its being 
the residence of the governor of the colony. From a commer¬ 
cial and agricultural point of view it is the most important isl¬ 
and in the group, notwithstanding its reputation for unhealth¬ 
iness. The southwest part of the island is the most un¬ 
healthy ; this is occasioned by the swampy nature of the 
coast, and the stagnant water of two sluggish rivers, which 
engender fevers. It is principally inhabited in the south 
and west. 

The island is very high, the highest point being a coni¬ 
cal mount, called Mount St. Antonio, which attains the alti¬ 
tude of 7,400 feet. There are numerous ravines which 
bring down perennial streams, and in these ravines there is 
a good deal of cultivated ground where crops of sugar-cane, 
coffee, beans, mandioca, &c., are raised. 


36 


ST. JAGO—COASTS, POINTS—PORTA PRAYA. 


Oil the coast there are no trees. The land is cultivated in 
cotton, aniseed and purgueira, the oil of the latter being 
largely exported. A coarse sugar is made from the juice of 
the sugar-cane, and a spirit called tafia is distilled $ large 
quantities of both are exported annually. Although the 
island is of a volcanic origin, it is the best watered in the 
group, and the water is generally of excellent quality. 

Coast. The coasts are generally abrupt and high, and in some 

places formed by cliffs lined with rocks. There are no 
detached dangers. The southeast part of the island, when 
seen from N. or S., appears like a long, low point. 

Southeast The southeast point of the island is low and surrounded 
with breakers. A little to the westward of the point there is 
a small cove with a sandy beach; its southern limit is high 
and steep. From thence the coast becomes lower and deep¬ 
ens to the west, forming a bay open to the eastward. At 
the bottom of this bay are numerous palm-trees and some 
houses. A little brook empties into the bay near these. 

st. Francis Bay. St. Francis Bay is 2 miles from the southeast point of the 
island. This bay may be easily distinguished from that of 
Porta Praya, because the east point is low and surrounded 
by breakers, while the east point of Porta Praya is high 
and clear; and also, at 1J miles N. of the entrance to the lat. 
ter, there is a hill with a flag-staff'. St. Francis Bay may 
also be known by its having at the back of it, and nearly at 
the water’s edge, a high, flat-topped table-land standing be¬ 
tween two mountains, while at the bottom of Porta Praya 
there is a long, low valley running inland for some distance. 
From St. Francis Bay to Signal-post Hill, 1J miles north of 
Porta Praya, the shore is high, cliffy, and lined with rocks 
close to. 

udas ta das Bi ^ ne m ^ e S0U ^ Signal-post Hill is Punta das Bicudas, 
the eastern point of Porta Praya. Punta das Bicudas is 
bluff and steep-to $ there are from 5 to 7 fathoms near it. 

Punta Tome. One mile and a half W by S 4 S from Punta das Bicudas 
is the rocky Punta Temerosa, which forms the western limit 
of the bay. On a line joining these two points the depths 
are 10, 12, and 14 fathoms, decreasing gradually to one 
fathom at the bottom and off the town. 

Porta Praya. Porta Praya is a fine bay, sheltered from all winds except 
those from SW. to SE. The winds, except in the tornado 
season, are generally in the NE. quarter, frequently blow¬ 
ing very fresh and squally; there are also frequent puffs 
from over the high land, but the sea is smooth and the an¬ 
chorage safe. The shores on the east side are high and 
abrupt, and near the town is a long, sandy beach which ex¬ 
tends to abreast of Quail Island; from thence to Punta Tern- 


ST. JAGO—PORTA PRAYA, ANCHORGE, APPROACHES. 37 

erosa the coast is high and lined with rocks and breakers. 
The town of Praya, which contains 2,600 inhabitants, is 
built on the top of a plateau; this plateau is surrounded by 
deep ravines in which there is some cultivation ; the sides 
are covered with steep rocks, rendering the ascent to the 
town difficult. The church and residence of the governor 
are near the sea face of the town. The governor-general of 
the Cape Yerde Islands resided formerly at Ribeira Grande, 
an episcopal city and the capital of the island; but foreign 
ships having totally abandoned the road of Ribeira Grande, 
which is very bad and of difficult access, for that of Praya, 
the governor now resides there during the dry season. It 
is estimated that 60 large sailing-vessels come to this port 
annually. There is a battery of 26 guns in front of the 
town and several other smaller ones around the bay. All are 
poorly armed and out of repair. 

On the western side of the bay is a small black island 
called Quail Island. It is almost level on top, but rugged 
at each end; it lies about 220 yards from the shore, to which 
it is connected by a rocky ledge only passable for small boats 
in fine weather, there being a narrow channel with 6 and 10 
feet of water in it; a rocky ledge runs off its north point, 
between which and the fort there are not more than 3 fathoms. 
There is a good landing on the west side of the island. 

Vessels rarely anchor to the northward of a liue drawn 
from the battery on Punta Temerosa to that on Punta Viscon- 
dej a good berth may be taken in from 8 to 10 fathoms of water 
on the following bearings: the flag-staff on the battery of 
the town NW.; the same on the battery on Punta Teme¬ 
rosa SW f W.; Quail Island (south point) W JS. Vessels 
often anchor on a liue joining Punta das Becudas and the 
southeast point of Quail Island in 8,10,12, or 14 fathoms, and 
it is a general rule that anchorage may be taken anywhere 
in the bay,in from 9 toll fathoms, good bottom, but nearer 
the eastern shore than Quail Island. The bottom is of sand, 
pebbles, and coral, and affords a fair holding-ground. In 
fine weather the anchorage, the bearings of which are given 
above, is perfectly safe, but during the stormy season, when 
it may be necessary to get under way if the wind is strong 
from SE. or SW., it is better to anchor farther out, in 16 
or 20 fathoms. From this position either point can be easily 
doubled. 

It is better to approach Porta Praya from the eastward, as 
the current generally sets S. or SW., and the northeast wind 
will be fair to the entrance of the bay. It will be prudent 
before rounding the southeast point of St. Jago to furl the top- 


Quail Island. 


Anchorage. 


Directions. 


38 ST. JAGO—STORMY SEASON, SUPPLIES, TIDES, ETC. 

gallant sails, and take a reef in the topsails, as the squalls 
which come off the high land are very heavy. Steer along 
the coast, keeping it about 1J miles distance, and when oft 
Punta das Bicudas, which may be passed close to, haul up 
for the anchorage. 

If coming from the westward it will be difficult to beat up 
against the wind and strong current which is usually found 
there. 

If the land-breeze is observed to be light in the bay, it 
will be better to stand off and on outside, as, should the 
wind fail, the vessel might be drifted ou the rocks by the 
current. The sea-breeze, in settled, fine weather, sets in 
about noon, and lasts until 4 or 5 p. m. 
stormy season. As ^ as I> een already stated, this anchorage is safe during 
the fine season, but during the rainy season, (July, August, 
September,) the wind sometimes blows with force, from SE. 
or SW., and sends in a heavy swell that renders it unsafe 
for sailing-vessels. When there are indications of these 
gales it will be prudent to put to sea. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Porta Praya at 6\ 

Bise of tide about 5 feet. 

Supplies. Bullocks of a fair quality may be obtained. Game, fruit, 
Wnter. an d vegetables abound. The oranges are particularly fine 

and are very cheap. Formerly water had to be rafted off in 
casks j now it may be bought from a merchant of the town, 
who sends it off to the ship. The best landing is in the north¬ 
west part of the bay near the town, a steep road leading to it. 
Fish abound, and there is an excellent place for hauling the 
seine in the western part. 

Coal There is a coaling-station on Quail Island, but the facili¬ 

ties for coaling are not comparable with those at Porto 
Grande and the island of St. Vincent. 

RibeiraGrande. Bibeira Grande, commonly called La Cidade, is situated 
in a ravine 9 miles west of Praya. This was formerly the 
principal port of the island, but it is now only accessible for 
small craft, the old anchorage having been blocked up. 

There are several other small bays or coves on the coast 
of St. Jago, but they are generally practicable only for small 
craft. At 4 miles west of Bibeira Grande there is a small 
PortComicos. cove called Port Comicos; from thence the coast trends to 
Port San Anto- the NW., and at 10 miles further ou is the little port of San 
Antonio. From this point to Tarrafal Point, (northwest 
point of St. Jago,) the coast runs N. and S. for 18 miles, and 
includes two small coves, with sandy beaches, separated by a 
rocky jutting point. The one to the south is called Bibeira 
ca RibeiradaBar 'da Barca, and the other, 6 miles farther north, Bibeira da 


ST. JAGO—ANCHORAGES, ETC.—FOGO II., DESCRIPTION. 39 


Prata. During fine weather anchorage may he taken off 
these beaches in from 0 to 13 fathoms, sandy bottom. Water, 
wood, and a small quantity of provisions may be obtained. 
Six miles north of Ribeira da Prata, and near the northwest 
point of the island, there is a bay called Tarrafal Bay; accord- 
ing to the native seamen it is safe during the rainy season, but 
entirely exposed to thenorthwest winds. Anchorage maybe 
taken in from 10 to 17 fathoms, sand or gravel bottom. 
There is a custom-house station here, but no habitations. 
Fire-wood, water, and a few supplies may be had. It is fre¬ 
quented by vessels coming for orclial. 

Tarrafal Point, the northwest point of St. Jago, is high and 
abrupt; from thence the coast trends to the SE. A little 
to the eastward is a large bay called Malguetas, which is 
entirely open, and dangerous on account of the calms, cur¬ 
rents, and heavy swell in its vicinity. Sailing-vessels should 
keep 9 or 10 miles off this coast. There is also another 
small port in about the middle of the east coast, called Port 
St. Jago; it may be recognized by the palm-trees growing 
near the bottom, and by the church on its southern part. It 
is dangerous, and rarely attempted. 


Ribeira da Pra- 
ta. 


Tarrafal Bay. 


Wood. 

Water 

Tarrafal Point. 


Malguetas Bay. 


Port St. Jago. 


FOGO ISLAND. 


Fogo Island is nearly circular; it is 43 miles in extent, 
and lies 50 miles SW. of St. Jago; it is the loftiest of the 
Cape Verde Islands, and may be seen from a long distance, 
the principal peak in the northeast corner being 9,700 feet 
above the sea. There have been two eruptions from this 
volcano in the present century; the last was in 1847. It 
seems now to be extinct, and quantities of sulphur are 
obtained from the inside of the crater. The coast is gener¬ 
ally high and abrupt. The ground is clear within a mile 
of the shore on the northwest, west, and south parts; but on 
the northeast, east, and southeast, a rocky plateau extends 
a short distance off shore. There is a great scarcity of good 
water on the island. The inhabitants are Spanish, and num¬ 
ber about 13,000. The climate is moderate in the northern 
part, but to the southward the heat is suffocating and 
droughts are frequent. 

A rock is said to exist off the north end of Fogo Island; caution, 
its supposed position is 4 miles off shore, with the peak 
bearing S b E. 

Ships should not approach the high parts of the island, winds - 
for, although a strong breeze may be blowing in the offing, 
light winds and calms prevail near the shore. 


40 TOGO LI. — CURRENTS, ANCHORAGE, ETC.—BRAVA. 

Currents. Off the north and northeast points of Fogo the currents 

are strong, and influenced by the winds outside. 

Anchorage. The principal anchorage of Fogo is off the town of Nossa 
Senhora da Luz, in the southwest part of the island. The 
roadstead is entirely open to the west, but sheltered from east¬ 
erly winds by the high land which surrounds it. Anchorage 
is taken J mile from the shore in 25 fathoms, rocky bot¬ 
tom, with the north point of the bay bearing N 2° W.; the 
south point S 50° E., and the battery N 52° E. Anchor¬ 
age may also be taken J mile from shore in from 10 to 17 
fathoms; bottom, sand or rocks. At f mile off shore there 
is no bottom at 130 fathoms. The landing is very bad. On 
account of the calms under the high land, the coast should 
not be approached until off the town. Short sail should be 
carried, as the squalls are violent. 

Porto da villa. There is another anchorage, a little to the northward of 
and separated from Luz by a sandy point. It is entirely 
open to the west, and the landing is very bad. Anchorage 
may be taken in from 12 to 17 fathoms, same bottom as at 
Luz. Vessels are said to anchor in Porto da Villa in the wet 
season, and at Luz at other times on account of a curious 
shifting sands, phenomenon which modifies the nature of the bottom. In 
both ports the bottom is rocky, covered with a thin bed of 
sand. During the period when the winds blow from the 
southward, the sands are carried from Luz to Porto da Villa, 
and in November, when the northeast trades set in, are car- 
Soundings. r i e d back again to Luz. No soundings are obtained around 
the island with a line of 130 fathoms, j of a mile from shore. 

BRAVA ISLAND. 

Brava, formerly called St. John Island, lies miles west 
of Fogo. It is very high, and would be seen at a great dis¬ 
tance were it not constantly covered by a dense atmosphere. 
There are a number of peaks scattered over its surface, 
which is 10 miles in extent. Off the northwest coast there 
is a small islet lying close to the land. The climate is healthy. 
The inhabitants number about 6,000. There is considerable 
cultivation in the valleys. Fruits and vegetables abound. 
Large quantities of salt and saltpeter are obtained. There 
are six sources of water on the island. 

Rombos islets. The Rombos, or Romes Islets, are two rocky islets about 
3 miles in extent, lying in a northeast and southwest direc¬ 
tion, 2 miles apart, but almost connected by rocks forming a 
crescent. From the eastern islet the northwest point of 
Fogo bears E b S J S., distant 6 miles; from the western and 
higher islets the nearest port of Brava bears S J W., distant 


BRAY A—ANCHORAGES, ETC.—C. VERDE II.—DANGERS. 41 


five miles. They are surrounded by deep water, but the 
ground between them is foul; clear channels exist between 
them and Brava and Fogo. 

There are several anchorages round Brava, principally 
for coasters; they are difficult of access, and only afford sup¬ 
plies in limited quantities. 

The best is called Furna, or the Oven, and is on the east 
coast, a little to the southward of the northeast point of the 
island of Punta do J abun d o ; it is small, shaped like an oven, 
is sheltered from winds except those from SE. and SW., 
and the water is very deep close to. Vessels anchor in 21J 
fathoms, and moor with a line to the rocks astern. In going 
to this anchorage it is better to make the northeast point, and 
then steer south until the bay is open; it may be recognized 
by its form, as well as by the custom-house and other houses 
at the bottom. Go in with the sea-breeze and out with the 
land-breeze. There are two or three small boats here which 
show the way in. During the season of southerly winds, 
vessels leave this anchorage for another called Feignau de 
Augua, which is three miles NW. of Furna. It can con¬ 
tain five or six coasters anchored in 7£ or 8 fathoms and 
moored to the rocks. It is open from NW. to NE. Water 
is plentiful. At 1J miles west of the south point of the 
island there is a small cove called Anciao, suitable only for 
small craft which go there for saltpeter. A little to the 
northward of Anciao is another called Ferreiros. Coasters 
moor to the rocks. Water in small quantities to be had. 

All the island is well cultivated, and a large quantity of 
maize is raised for exportation. Fruits and vegetables may 
be had to a limited extent. 


Soundings. 


Anchorages. 


Furna. 


Feign an de Au¬ 
gua. 


Ancido. 


Ferreiros. 


Products. 


DANGERS. 

The following dangers have been reported near the Cape 
Verde Islands, but do not appear on the latest charts. 

This shoal was reported by Capt. Thomas Fanning, of the g h ^J 1 nnah sCoral 
brig Hannah, on the passage from Bio Janeiro to Trieste, 

June 25,1824. Sounded in fifteen fathoms, granulated coral, 
on the southwest part, but supposed it much shoaler on the 
northeast parts, as the weed was plainly to be seen, from the 
mast-head, on the surface of the water. Its latitude was 
found to be 10° 07' N.; longitude about 27° 32' W. In 1857 
the Constantine sounded in 87 fathoms, rock and gravelly 
bottom, in lat. 10° 09' 20" K, long. 26° 47' 10" W.; 
and Captain Pullen, in Her Majesty’s ship Cyclops, could 
find no bottom, on the spot assigned to the Hannah Bank, 
with 2,000 fathoms of line. 



Patty's Slioal. 


Porgas Bank. 


42 CAPE VEKDE ISLANDS —DANGERS. 

In 18G8 the Astrea sounded all round its position, but 
without result. 

The position given for this shoal is 11° N., 24° 30' W. 
Searched for by Lieutenant Wilkes, United States Navy, but 
not found. Erased from charts. 

In the early charts of the Atlantic this bank has always 
been shown as extending GO leagues N. and S., with a breadth 
of G leagues. It was unsuccessfully sought for by the Severn 
in 1819. 

In 1819 Captain Freminville sounded in 164 fathoms, in 
lat. 15o 35 / k, long. 2U 40' W. In 1850 Mr. Allen, in the 
Birkenhead, obtained a cast in 86 fathoms in lat. 17° N., 
long. 23° 03' 15" W. The bottom appeared to consist ot 
pieces of shells and sand, or small particles of coral. The 
sea is said to be much discolored on the bank, which may 
serve to recognize it. 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


Anciao, anchorage of 
Antonio, St., Island . 
Antonio, St., Port. .. 
Antonio, St., Peak ... 


Balallia, Mount. ... 
Bicudas, Punta das 

Bird Island. 

Bissagos Islands... 

Blisset Reefs.. 

Bluff Reef. 

Boavista Island.... 

-currents. ... 

-soundings... 

-caution.. ... 

Bonetta Rock.. 

Botelka, Point. 

Branca Island__ 

Brava Island. 

Braitli waite Islet .. 

Broyal, Point. 

- Mount. 

Bull Rock. 


C. 


Callieta, Port of. 

Cape Verde Islands .... 

-general remarks. 

-climate. 

-productions. 

-exports. 

-imports. 

-winds. 

-fogs. 

-currents. 

-channels. 

-tides. 

-soundings. 

- coasts. 

-dangers oft’. 

Carrical Bay. 

-water. 

-tides. 

Carvoeiros, anchorage of 
Cavallo Blanco Reef 


Pages. 

41 

15 

38 

33,35 


33 
36 

13,26 

12 

34 
28 
27 
27 
32 

32,33 

27 
18 
21 
40 

28 
28 
27 
17 


35 
0-43 
9-15 
10,12 
10 
10 
10 
11 
12 
12 
13 
15 
15 
15 
41, 42 
23 
23 
23 
17 
10 


Pages. 

Cidade, anchorage of. 38 

Columua, Point. 18 

Comicos, Tort. 38 

Coral Hill. 28 

-Point. 28 

-Reef. 30 

Curralinho Anchorage. 29 

U. 

Dos Gatos Bay. 18 

Do Sol, Pointa. 16 

-anchorage. 16 

-water. 16 

- directions. 16 

Dutch Islet. 28,29 

E. 

English Road.28,30,34 

- water. 34 

-soundings. 34 

-reefs. 34 

Estancia, Point. 28 

F. 

Feignan de Augua, anchorage of... 41 

Ferreiros anchorage. 41 

Fogo Island. 39 

-danger north of. 39 

Foul Channel. 13 

Formosa, Mount. 23 

Forcado Bay. 24 

Freshwater Bay. 23 

Furna, anchorage. 41 

-directions. 41 


G. 

Galhao or North Reef. 
Gonedo, Mount. 


33 

24 


II. 


Hannah’s Bank. 41 

Hartwell Reefs. 29 

Horn Point. 25 


I. 


Inner Reef 


30 














































































































44 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


J. Pages. 

Jabundo, Punta do. 41 

Janella River. 1~ 

Juan Fernandez, Mount. 27 

K. 


Krabbe Point. 23 

L. 

Lapa Bay. 24 

Leon Island. 21 

Leton Rock. 9, 32,33 

Leeward Group. 9,10 

Lion’s Head Point. . 26 

Luz, N. S. da, anchorage of. 40 

-directions. 40 


M. 


Malguetas Bay. 39 

Man Mountain. 27 

Manuel, Point. 25 

Martinez, Peak. 25 

Mayo Island.-.. 33 

- directions. 35 

-soundings. 34,35 

Monte Gordo, (Branca). 21 

Mordeira Bay. 26 

-water. 26 

-tides. 26 


N. 


North Cay. 28 

New Town. 30 

-reef of. 30 

Northwest Bay. 24 


O. 


Porto Sal Rey.. 

Porto Praya. 

-directions.. 

-tides.. 

-anchorage.. 

- resources . 

-seasons.. 

Praya, Town of. 

Praya Branca. 

Porto Grande, Bay of. 

-water. 

-directions. 

-resources.. 

- anchorage . 

Porto da Villa, anchorage of. 

-shifting sands. 

Portuguese Road —.. 

Preguiza, Port. 

-directions.. 

Punta das Bicudas. 


Q- 

Quail Island. 

R. 


Rahil. 

Raza Island. 

Resher Peak. 

Ribeira da Barca, port of 
Ribeira da Plata, port of 

Ribeira Brava. 

Ribeira Grande. 

-ravine of. 

Rolla Road. 

Rocky Point. 

Rombos Islets. 


Pages. 

39 

36 

37 

38 

37 
38T 

38 
10,37 

22 

18 

20 

18-20 

20 

18 

40 
40 
29 
24 
21 
36 


37 


30 

22 

28 

38 

39 
23 
38 
38 
23 

34,35 

40 


Ochello, Mount. 27 

Otho do Mar, Mount. 24 

Oroutes Bank. 19 

Orratfio, Point. 28 

P. 

Palmas, Cape. 12 

Palmira Bay.. - -. 27 

-Point. 27 

Patty’s Shoal. 42 

Pan Secco, Bay of. 35 

Pinos, Mount. 33 

Platform Hill. 27 

Porgas Bank. 42 

Porto Salina. 26 

Porto do Norte. 28 


S. 


Sal Island. 25 

SalmassaBay. 18 

Salt Pan Point. 34 

Sal Rey, port of... 1. 30 

San Joao Baptista do Norte. 29 

Santa Cruz. 17 

Santa Maria Bay. 25 

San Pedro Bay.. 20 

Serra Negra, Point. 25 

Small Island. 30 

St. Antonio Island. 15 

-Peak. 33,35 

St. Francis Bay. 36 

St. George’s Bay. 23 

St. Jago Island.... 35 















































































































ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 45 


Pages 


St. Jago, town of. 39 

St. Lucia Island. 20 

St. Nicholas Island. 22 

St. Vincent Island. 17 

Still Bay. 20 

Sugar-Loaf Mountain. 16,22 

T. 

Tarrafal Bay, (St. Antonio). 16 

-water. 16 

Tarrafal Bay, (St. Nicholas). 24 

-water. 24 

Tarrafal Bay, (St. Jago). 39 

Temerosa, Point. 36 


Ten-foot Reef. 30 i 


Pages. 


Turtle Point. 26 

U. 

Urrateo, Point. 28 

V. 

Verandinha Reef. 30 

-Point. 28 

Vermilharia, Point. 24 

Visconde Point. 37 

W. 

Windward Islands. 9,10 

Wreck Point. 25 



























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